Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
